If there are any materials that never go out of style, linen is certainly one of them. Yet it is unfairly overlooked. Linen is not only a popular fabric for summer because it is breathable, but also an eco-friendly, durable, and very sturdy fabric that becomes softer over time. It has undeniable qualities and, moreover, comes mainly from our home country and some neighboring countries. France is, in fact, the world’s largest producer of linen (accounting for nearly 80% of global production).
In this article, we’ll show you why you’ll love linen in every season and for every use. It’s a fabulous natural material that’s making a strong comeback in the world of fashion and furniture. A journey through the world of cultivated linen, from its history to current trends
What is linen, and what is its history?
Flax, or Linum usitatissimum in Latin, is what is known as a herbaceous bast plant. This means it has a soft stem, and its fibers are found inside the stem. Because the fibers are protected within the stem, this ensures their strength. Flax grows quickly, as it takes only about 100 days to mature.
Flax fibers are used primarily in the textile industry (mainly in fashion, but also as insulation), while the seeds are used to produce flaxseed oil, which is rich in omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids.
The use of flax is nothing new. Flax is often referred to as the world’s oldest textile. The oldest traces of flax date back to 36,000 B.C. in a cave in western Georgia. Linen played an important role in Egyptian history. Described as “woven moonlight, ” linen was considered sacred during the time of the pharaohs and was a symbol of purity. There are 5,000-year-old depictions that illustrate the flax harvesting process of that era.
A French research team studied the flax fiber that was used as burial cloth. Nearly 4,000 years later, it has retained all of its properties. This shows just how durable it was.
The Gauls also grew flax and used it for their clothing and for the sails of their ships.
Charlemagne went one step further and promoted the linen craft by including it in the Villis Capitular, which lists the plants designated for cultivation in the gardens of the royal estate. He thus ensured that linen was used at court and in all households by providing them with the material for it.
However, he was not the only ruler to honor linen . Louis XIV was also enthusiastic about this fiber and showcased it in tapestries and clothing. And thanks to his influence, linen quickly became widespread at the royal court.
In the 19th century, the industrialization of the cotton industry harmed flax cultivation, which consequently lost its prominence. This trend was further exacerbated by the introduction of synthetic textiles in the 20th century.
Between the two world wars, the linen industry in France was revived and slowly regained popularity.
❓ Did you know?
The word "Wäsche" comes from the Latin word *linum*, which means "flax." This is further proof that linen has always been a part of people's everyday lives and intends to remain so.
The history of flax is rich and far from over. Today, with the return to natural and local products, linen has its place.
Linen: Many Qualities That Make It a Special Fabric
Environmentally Friendly Farming
Consumers are focusing their attention on the production of everyday consumer goods. Since the industry is increasingly aware of the environmental impacts—from cultivation and manufacturing through to distribution—it must find more and more solutions to offer environmentally responsible products. The textile industry is by no means an exception to this.
Naturalness is all the rage and is being promoted everywhere. To meet the growing demands on production methods, Leinen has pulled out all the stops.
First of all, it is grown primarily in France (Normandy, Picardy), Belgium, and the Netherlands. That’s a stroke of luck, because the benefits don’t stop there.
It is an annual plant that thrives in a temperate climate. It is sown between March and April and blooms in June.
It is a very water-efficient plant. It thrives on rainwater from northern climates. It requires very little watering. And the use of pesticides or fertilizers is not strictly necessary for its successful cultivation.
In addition, as already mentioned, the entire plant is used. Nothing is thrown away. The byproducts are used in paper manufacturing or to produce plant bedding.
🌿 The Steps in Linen Production 🌿
1. Harvesting: Starting in July, after flowering in June, the flax is harvested to ensure a high-quality crop. This process is carried out using special machines.
2. Roasting: In August, the flax is roasted to separate the fibers from the stems. Thanks to the ambient humidity, bacteria are able to remove the outer layer of the stems.
3. Scutching: In this process, the flax fibers are separated from the bark through mechanical action. The flaxseeds are also harvested during this phase.
4. Combing: The long fibers are combed with fine combs. This step removes the last traces of straw and other debris. The fibers then lie parallel to one another.
5. Spinning: There are two methods—wet spinning (for linens or clothing) and dry spinning (for furniture and similar items). The fibers are then processed into roving.
Unfortunately, some of the linen production is sent to China to be processed into clothing there. Aside from the fact that the carbon footprint is disastrous, Chinese factories use dyes and chemical treatments. As a result, the ecological benefits of linen are completely lost.
For this reason, you should choose European linen that is grown and processed locally to benefit from unique expertise and achieve a high-quality, aesthetically pleasing result.
Technical and Aesthetic Qualities of Linen
Linen is a breathable fabric. It also helps regulate temperature. It retains heat in the winter and allows air to pass through, which keeps you feeling cool in the summer.
In addition, linen is the fabric with the highest absorbency. It can absorb nearly 20% moisture while still feeling dry to the touch.
Thanks to these properties, linen is also naturally antibacterial and hypoallergenic, as it dries very quickly and does not allow moisture to accumulate, with all the associated consequences.
History has shown that linen is very durable. It is a fiber that stands the test of time without suffering damage (provided it is of good quality). Linen fabric lasts twice as long as cotton fabric. It also has the advantage of not warping over time or developing flaws, such as pilling, as cotton does.
Linen may feel rough at first, but it softens over time. This is another remarkable quality, because it’s not only durable but also feels better with every wash.
By the way, caring for linen is very easy. If it's thick and of good quality, it can be machine-washed at up to 60 degrees. Otherwise, washing it at 40 degrees is perfectly sufficient.
The linen fiber has a unique aesthetic appeal. Throughout history, it has repeatedly captivated people and was prized by the Egyptians for use in clothing, decoration, or for sacred purposes.
It is a timeless material that is both elegant and rustic. Its sometimes crinkled appearance evokes a soothing and warm sense of authenticity.
It is not smooth; rather, its irregularity embodies the many characteristics mentioned above.
Linen has everything your heart desires: It’s eco-friendly, durable, long-lasting, hypoallergenic, and has a unique style. It comes from France and neighboring countries, but isn’t being used to its full potential.